UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA     AGRICULTURAL    EXPERIMENT  STATION 
COLLEGE   OF  AGRICULTURE  BENJ    '°E  WHEELER'  '«■■■•■■« 

THOMAS    FORSYTH    HUNT,    Dean  and  Director 
BERKELEY  H.    E.   VAN    NORMAN,   Vice-Director   and   Dean 

University  Farm  School 

CIRCULAR  No.  204 
August,  1918 

HANDBOOK  OF  PLANT  DISEASE 
AND  PEST  CONTROL 

By  RALPH  E.  SMITH,  E.  O.  ESSIG,  and  GEO.  P.  GRAY 


ALFALFA 

Bust,  Leaf  Spot. — Not  often  serious  or  persistent.  Worst  on  dry 
soil  or  weak  plants.  Usually  disappears  after  a  cutting  and  good 
irrigation.  The  hay  is  valuable  for  orchard  mulch  if  too  rusty  for 
feed. 

Crown  Gall,  Stem  Rot. — When  stand  becomes  too  poor,  plow  and 
put  into  some  other  crop  for  a  few  years.  Relevel  if  there  are  any 
low  spots. 

Caterpillar. — Cutting  as  soon  as  the  caterpillar  appears  in  injur- 
ious numbers  will  save  much  of  the  crop. 

Cutworms,  Army  Worms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "General  Subjects." 

ALMOND 

Shot  Hole,  Rust. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10  just  as  buds  are 
swelling. 

Armillaria,  Crown  Gall,  Sour  Sap. — See  "General  Subjects." 

California  Peach-borer,  Peach  Twig-borer. — See  "Peach." 

Red-humped  Caterpillar. — See  "Prune." 

Red  Spider. — Apply  dry  sulfur,  sulfur  paste,  home-made  wettable 
sulfur  sprays  (Formula  13  or  14),  or  lime-sulfur  1-50,  as  soon  as 
mites  appear  and  as  often  as  necessary  throughout  the  summer  and 
fall. 

San  Jose  Scale. — See  "Apple." 

Combined  Spraying 
The  lime-sulfur  spraying  when  the  buds  are  swelling  will  control 
shot-hole  fungus  and  twig  borer  and  also  help  to  destroy  San  Jose 
or  other  scales  and  red  spider. 


APPLE 

Blight. — See  "Pear."  .  Remove  all  worthless  apple  trees  near 
orchards  of  pear  or  apple. 

Scab. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9),  or  lime-sulfur 
1-20,  just  before  blossoms  open.  Again  with  lime-sulfur  1-35  when 
petals  are  falling. 

Mildew. — Cut  out  mildewed  twigs  as  thoroughly  as  possible.  Use 
lime-sulfur  for  scab  spraying  or  if  scab  is  not  serious  use  sulfur  paste, 
16  pounds  to  200  gallons  of  water  (or  home-made  wettable  sulfur 
spray,  Formula  13  or  14)  when  petals  are  falling.  Later  spraying  for 
mildew  may  be  made  with  the  same  material.  Sulfur  sprays  cause 
injury  to  apple  trees  in  some  sections. 

Codling  Moth. — Spray  with  lead  arsenate,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons 
of  water  (Formula  1  or  2)  as  soon  as  petals  begin  to  fall  and  repeat 
in  three  or  four  weeks.  In  some  cases  it  is  necessary  to  give  a  third 
application  four  weeks  after  the  second. 

Bed-humped  Caterpillar. — See  "Prune." 

Tent  Caterpillars,  Canker  Worms. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Green  and  Bosy  Apple  Aphis. — Spray  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula 
23),  miscible  oil,  or  tobacco  extract  (Formula  27).  The  critical  time 
for  application  is  just  as  the  leaf  buds  are  opening,  to  kill  the  young 
which  are  at  that  time  hatching  from  the  eggs. 

Woolly  Apple  Aphis. — Spray  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  23)  or 
miscible  oil  during  winter  months.  For  root  form,  expose  crown  of 
roots  and  pour  in  a  quantity  of  the  above  spray  mixture  and  re-cover 
the  roots.  Nicotine  sulfate  (Formula  27)  is  also  effective,  or  refuse 
tobacco  may  be  buried  in  the  soil  over  the  main  roots  during  the  rainy 
season. 

San  Jose  Scale. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10  during  winter 
months  when  tree  is  dormant. 

Tussock  Moth. — Remove  egg  masses  during  winter  months.  Jar 
off  caterpillars  and  prevent  their  ascent  of  tree  by  cotton  or  tanglefoot 
bands. 

Flat-headed  Apple  Tree  Borer. — Whitewash  to  prevent  sunburn. 
Dig  out  borers.  Prevent  injury  or  wounds  to  the  tree.  The  insect 
usually  enters  through  dead  areas. 

Combined  Spraying 

1.  For  serious  infestations  of  scale,  for  removal  of  moss,  and  for 
general  clean-up,  lime-sulfur  1-10  or  crude  oil  spray  (Formula  18) 
during  the  winter. 


2.  For  green,  rosy,  and  woolly  aphis,  use  oil  emulsion  (Formula 
23)  or  miscible  oils  just  as  leaf  buds  are  opening.  If  woolly  aphis  is 
not  abundant  but  where  rosy  or  green  aphis  and  scab  are  serious  pests, 
use  at  this  time  lime-sulfur  1-20,  to  which  is  added  one  pound  of  40 
per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  to  each  200  gallons  of  spray.  The  lime-sulfur 
at  this  time  may  also  help  to  control  a  slight  infestatioa  of  San  Jose 
scale.  Combinations  of  oil  sprays  for  woolly  aphis,  with  lime-sulfur 
or  Bordeaux  for  scab,  are  not  considered  advisable.  The  soluble  sulfur 
preparations  (compounds  with  soda)  may  be  mixed  with  the  oil 
sprays  and  could  probably  be  adopted  for  use  in  the  control  of  scab, 
mildew  and  woolly  aphis  by  determining  a  safe  strength. 

3.  For  codling  moth  and  scab,  use  8  pounds  of  basic  lead  arsenate 
in  200  gallons  of  1-35  lime-sulfur,  when  petals  are  falling.  For 
mildew  add  16  pounds  of  sulfur  paste  to  each  200  gallons.  If  rosy  or 
green  aphis  appears,  1  pound  of  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  may  also 
be  added. 

4.  For  codling  moth  and  late  scab  infection,  repeat  3,  following 
also  the  recommendations  for  aphis  and  mildew  if  these  pests  need 
attention. 

In  large  apple-growing  regions  obtain  advice  of  local  horticultural 
authorities  as  to  modifications  in  above. 


APRICOT 

Black  Heart. — Cut  off  affected  branches  back  to  main  trunk  as 
soon  as  the  wilting  is  seen.  Destroy  badly  affected  young  trees 
entirely.    Avoid  heavy  irrigation  in  affected  orchards. 

Brown  Rot,  Blossom  Blight,  Gumming  Twig  Blight,  Green  Rot, 
Shot  Hole. — Destroy  mummies  in  fall.  Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10 
as  buds  are  swelling  and  again  when  first  blossoms  are  open.  If  rainy 
while  "  jackets"  are  on,  spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-30.  For  the  control 
of  brown  rot  of  the  fruit,  summer  spraying  with  sulfur  paste  or  the 
so-called  self -boiled  lime-sulfur  is  often  recommended.  In  California 
such  practice  has  resulted  quite  frequently  in  injury  to  the  trees  and 
must  therefore  be  tried  with  caution.  The  injury  consists  in  a  yellow- 
ing of  the  foliage,  stunting  of  the  fruit,  disfigurement  by  sediment  on 
the  fruit,  and  failure  of  the  trees  to  bloom  the  following  season. 

Bud  Blight. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-8,  between  November  15 
and  December  15. 

Armillaria,  Crown  Gall,  Sour  Sap. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Black  Scale,  Brown  Apricot  Scale. — Spray  during  November  or 
December  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  18  or  23)  or  miscible  oil  spray. 


Shot  Hole  Borers  or  Bark  Beetles. — Remove  and  burn  all  infested 
portions. 

California  Peach-borer,  Peach  Twig-borer. — See  "Peach." 
Red-humped  Caterpillar. — See  "Prune." 

Combined  Spraying 
The   lime-sulfur  treatment   just   as  buds   are   opening   as   recom- 
mended for  fungous  diseases  will  also  control  twig-borer  and  give  the 
trees  a  general  clean-up. 

ASPARAGUS 

Bust. — Keep  down  volunteer  growth.  Dust  tops  with  sulfur  as 
soon  as  they  are  well  expanded.    Repeat  in  four  weeks. 

Beetle. — Cut  down  all  seedlings  except  a  few  left  for  trap  crop. 
In  the  spring  after  beetles  have  collected  on  these  and  deposited  eggs, 
cut  down  and  burn.  Spray  young  seedlings  with  lead  arsenate,  1 
pound  to  16  gallons  of  water,  or  with  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate 
1  gallon,  whale  oil  soap  4  pounds,  and  water  20  gallons.  Burn  and 
eliminate  all  possible  sheltering  plants  during  winter. 

Centipede  or  Symphyla. — Flooding  in  spring  before  cultivation 
has  given  good  results  in  some  places.  Rotation  of  crops  may  be 
necessary  for  a  few  years. 

BARLEY 

(See  Grain.) 

BEAN 

Anthracnose. — Very  rare  and  unimportant  in  California. 

Mildew,  Rust. — Dust  with  sulfur  at  first  appearance. 

Wilt,  Stem  Rot,  Rhizoctonia,  Fusarium. — Prepare  soil  very  thor- 
oughly. Plant  as  late  as  possible,  avoiding  cold  or  wet  weather.  Save 
seed  from  strong,  well-matured  plants. 

Nematode. — See  "General  Subjects."  Black  Eyes  and  Teparys 
are  more  resistant  than  other  beans  but  sometimes  badly  affected. 

Aphis,  Thrips. — No  practical  field  control.  Nicotine  sprays  give 
temporary  results  if  thoroughly  applied,  but  they  are  usually  too 
expensive  for  field  work.    Keep  plants  as  vigorous  as  possible. 

Red  Spider. — If  possible,  keep  beans  thoroughly  irrigated,  culti- 
vated and  in  good  healthy  conditon.  Begin  sulfuring  as  soon  as 
spiders  appear  and  continue  throughout  summer,  using  dry  sulfur. 

Weevil. — Fumigate  beans  in  storage  with  carbon  bisulfide  10  to  30 
pounds  to  a  thousand  cubic  feet  of  air  space,  the  amount  depending 
upon  the  tightness  of  the  room  or  bin. 


BEET 

Curly  Top  (Blight). — Plant  as  early  in  season  as  soil  can  be  prop- 
erly prepared  and  good  germination  and  growth  obtained.  This  varies 
in  different  districts  from  December  1  to  March  1,  according  to  tem- 
perature and  rainfall.  Finish  thinning  before  hot  weather.  Irrigate 
early,  and  often  enough  to  prevent  wilting  during  spring  and  sum- 
mer. The  disease  need  not  be  feared  unless  the  insect  Eutettix  tenella 
is  abundant. 

Seedling  Root  Rot. — Replant  if  stand  is  too  thin. 

Rust,  Leaf  Spot. — No  treatment  needed. 

Nematode. — See  "General  Sub  jets."  The  beet  is  attacked  by 
two  species,  the  garden  nematode,  Heterodera  radicicola,  which  attacks 
a  great  variety  of  plants,  and  the  beet  nematode,  H.  schachtii,  which 
is  a  pest  only  on  the  sugar  beet.  This  does  not  produce  large  galls  as 
with  the  former  species. 

Army  worms,  Cutworms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Wireworms. — Plow  in  fall  to  destroy  pupae.  Plant  early  and  prac- 
tice clean  culture.  Trap  adults  by  means  of  piles  of  straw  and  burn 
in  late  fall  or  winter. 

BUSH    FRUITS 

(Blackberry,  Loganberry,  Easpberry) 

Leaf  Spot,  Rust,  Cane  Blight. — Cut  out  and  burn  all  affected  parts 
injthe  fall.  Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10  or  Bordeaux  mixture  during 
the  dormant  season.  Give  good  irrigation  and  cultivation.  Renew 
old  plantings. 

Fruit  Mold. — Avoid  mixing  moldy  berries  with  good  ones. 

Borers. — Cut  out  dead  canes  and  burn  during  winter  months. 

Scales. — Spray  during  winter  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  23)  or 
miscible  oil. 

CABBAGE 

Aphis. — Spray  repeatedly  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  23)  or  nico- 
tine (Formula  27). 

Cabbage  Worm. — Spray  repeatedly  up  to  picking  time  with  nico- 
tine sulfate  40  per  cent,  1  pound  to  100  gallons  of  water,  or  spray 
until  two  or  three  weeks  before  harvesting  with  lead  arsenate,  2 
pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water  in  which  4  pounds  of  hard  laundry  soap 
has  been  dissolved. 

Root  Maggot. — Place  tarred  paper  shields  around  bases  of  plants 
or  spray  repeatedly  with  carbolic-acid  emulsion  (Formula  26).  Plow 
and  work  ground  thoroughly  in  spring  to  destroy  pupae. 


CELERY 

Blight. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  (Formula  9),  especially  in  moist 
weather,  commencing-  in  seed  bed. 

Celery  Caterpillar. — Hand-pick  or  spray  with  lead  arsenate. 
Aphis. — Spray  with  nicotine  (Formula  27). 

CHERRY 

Gummosis,  Die-hack. — See  "General  Subjects."  Usually  due  to 
shallow  soil  or  too  much  water.  Some  forms  of  gummosis  may  be 
parasitic.  Cut  out  affected  branches  below  diseased  parts  or  cut  out 
affected  areas  of  bark.  Sterilize  as  in  Pear  Blight.  See  also  ' '  Wound 
Treatment. ' ' 

Aphis. — Spray  as  buds  are  opening  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula 
23),  nicotine  (Formula  27),  or  miscible  oil. 

Cherry  Slug. — Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  or  dust  with  sulfur, 
kaolin,  lime  or  fine  road  dust. 

California  Peach-borer. — See  "Peach." 

Tent  Caterpillars. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Cankermorms. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Hed-humped  Caterpillar. — See  "Prune." 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Rust. — Fertilize  and  irrigate  freely  to  produce  strong,  vigorous 
plants. 

Aphis. — Spray  with  nicotine  (Formula  27).  Cut  out  and  burn 
infested  plants  as  soon  as  insects  appear. 

Leaf  Miner. — Spray  with  nicotine  sulfate  40  per  cent  solution,  1 
pound  to  100  gallons  of  water. 

Gall  Fly. — Keep  plants  trimmed  in  spring.  Spray  with  nicotine 
sulfate  40  per  cent,  1  pound  to  100  gallons  of  water  when  eggs  appear 
on  tips  of  branches  in  spring  and  summer. 

CITRUS 

(Grape  Fruit,  Lemon,  Orange) 

Damping-off,  Armillaria  Roof  Rot. — See  ' '  General  Subjects. ' ' 
Gummosis. — Cut  out  all  affected  bark  as  soon  as  discovered  and 
treat  wounds  with  Bordeaux  paste  (Formula  10).  Do  not  allow  water 
to  stand  about  base  of  trees.  In  planting,  keep  point  of  budding  well 
above  ground  and  never  allow  the  soil  to  pile  up  around  the  trunk. 
For  heavy  soil,  use  trees  high-budded  on  sour-orange  root. 

Scaly  Bark. — Cut  out  all  discolored  bark  and  surface  wood  when 
the    outbreak   first   appears.      Cover   wounds   with    Bordeaux   paste 


(Formula  10).  Cut  off  badly  affected  branches.  Watch  all  the  trees 
very  closely  in  groves  where  the  disease  is  present  and  eradicate  the 
disease  at  its  first  appearance. 

Brown  Rot,  Cottony  Rot. — When  disease  is  prevalent  spray  lower 
branches  and  ground  beneath  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9). 
Do  not  allow  boxes  of  fruit  to  stand  over  night  in  orchard.  Use  blue- 
stone  in  wash  water  (Formula  12),  maintaining  constant  strength  of 
1%  pounds  to  1000  gallons.  Grade  out  very  carefully  all  orchard- 
infected  fruit  before  storing. 

Blue  Mold,  Green  Mold. — Avoid  bruising  in  picking  and  handling 
fruit. 

Mottled  Leaf. — Add  as  much  organic  matter  to  soil  as  possible  in 
form  of  green-manure  crops,  bean  or  barley  straw,  and  manure.  See 
that  water  penetrates  to  subsoil  and  keeps  it  uniformly  moist.  See 
"General  Subjects." 

Scales. — Fumigate  with  hydrocyanic-acid  gas. 

Mealy  Bug. — Fumigate  with  hydrocyanic-acid  gas  or  spray  repeat- 
edly with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  20),  crude  carbolic  acid  emulsion 
(Formula  26),  or  water  under  high  pressure. 

Red  Spider. — Dust  with  sulfur  or  spray  with  home-made  wettable 
sulfur  sprays  (Formula  14),  sulfur  paste  10  pounds  to  100  gallons 
of  water,  or  lime-sulfur  1-50. 

Aphis. — Use  Nicotine  Spray  (Formula  27). 

CORN 

Smut. — Destroy  diseased  parts  as  soon  as  discovered.  Seed  treat- 
ment not  effective. 

Ear  Mold. — Sometimes  bad  on  late  corn  in  moist  soil.  Use  early 
varieties.  Harvest  and  cure  as  early  as  possible.  Avoid  over-irriga- 
tion. 

Earworm, — Clean  up  and  burn  refuse  in  field.  Plow  in  fall  or 
early  spring  to  kill  pupae.  Dusting  silk  of  ears  with  powdered 
arsenate  of  lead  affords  some  relief. 

Cutworms,  Armyworms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Granary  Weevil,  Rice  Weevil,  Angoumois  Grain  Moth. — See 
"Grain." 

COTTON 

Corn  Earworm. — See  "Corn." 

Red  Spider. — Dust  with  sulfur  or  spray  with  sulfur  paste  or  home- 
made wettable  sulfur  sprays  (Formula  13  or  14). 


CUCUMBER 

Mildew. — Dust  with  sulfur  at  first  appearance. 

Nematode. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Beetles. — Spray  with  lead  arsenate,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 

Aphis. — See  "Melon. 


7  7 


CURRANT,    GOOSEBERRY 

Mildew. — Dust  with  sulfur  at  first  appearance. 

Borers. — Cut  out  and  burn  infested  twigs  during  winter. 

Scale. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10,  or  oil  emulsion  (Formula  23) 
during  the  winter. 

Red  Spider. — Dust  with  sulfur  or  spray  with  sulfur  paste 
(Formula  13),  10  pounds  to  100  gallons,  as  spiders  appear. 

DAHLIA 

Mildew. — See  ' '  Currant. ' ' 

Aphis,  Thrips,  White  Fly. — Spray  with  40  per  cent  nicotine  sul- 
fate, 1  pound  to  200  gallons  of  water. 

Diabrotioa. — Hand  pick.  Spray  repeatedly  with  lead  arsenate,  3 
pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 

GRAIN 

(Barley,  Oats,  Wheat) 

Bust. — No  remedy.    Some  varieties  are  more  resistant  than  others. 

Smut. — Seed  grain  should  be  carefully  cleaned  of  smut  balls,  weed 
seeds  and  small  cracked  and  inferior  grains  before  treating.  The  smut 
balls  in  wheat  and  smut  masses  in  barley  may  be  cleaned  out  in  fan- 
ning mills  or  floated  out  in  water  and  skimmed.  Place  the  cleaned 
seed  in  half -filled  sacks  tied  at  the  end.  Immerse  these  sacks  for  three 
or  four  minutes  in  a  bluestone  solution  made  by  dissolving  1  pound 
of  bluestone  in  5  gallons  of  water  (Formula  11).  Drain  the  sacks 
until  dripping  no  longer  occurs,  then  dip  them  for  three  minutes  in 
milk  of  lime  made  by  slaking  1  pound  of  quicklime  in  10  gallons  of 
water.  The  lime  prevents  injury  to  the  germ  from  the  bluestone.  If 
quicklime  cannot  be  secured,  air-slacked  lime,  1  pound  to  8  gallons 
of  water,  may  be  used.  After  thus  treating,  the  grain  should  be  spread 
out  to  dry,  after  which  it  may  be  planted  or  stored. 

Oats  are  especially  sensitive  to  bluestone  and  in  this  case  it  is 
better  to  use  a  solution  of  formaldehyde,  1  pound  to  40  gallons  of 
water,  for  ten  minutes,  after  which  no  lime  dip  is  needed.  Barley  is 
more  sensitive  than  wheat  and  should  always  be  lime-dipped  after 
treatment  with  bluestone. 


9 

Army  worms,  Cutworms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "  General  Subjects." 
Granary   Weevil,  Bice    Weevil,  Angoumois  Moth. — Fumigate   in 

storage  with  carbon  bisulfide,  10  to  30  pounds  per  thousand  cubic  feet 

of  air  space. 

GRAPE 

Mildew. — Dust  thoroughly  with  sulfur  at  first  appearance.  Repeat 
if  necessary. 

Black  Knot. — May  be  treated  like  Crown  Gall  (see  "General  Sub- 
jects") with  some  success.    Not  usually  very  injurious. 

Little  Leaf,  Apoplexy,  Obscure  Diseases. — See  "Physiological  Dis- 
eases" under  "General  Subjects." 

Leaf  Hopper. — Spray  with  the  following  before  insects  can  fly: 
40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  1  pound,  liquid  soap  %  gallon  (hard 
soap  2  pounds),  water  200  gallons.  Clean  weeds  and  refuse  from 
around  fences.     Practice  clean  culture  during  winter. 

Army  worms,  Cutworms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "General  Subjects." 

California  Grape  Boot  Worm,  Flea  Beetles. — Cultivate  thoroughly 
close  to  vines  during  summer  and  winter.  As  soon  as  bettles  first 
appear  in  the  spring  spray  with  arsenate  of  lead,  6  pounds  to  100 
gallons  of  water. 

Bhylloxera. — Use  resistant  root-stocks. 

HOLLYHOCK 

Bust. — Fertilize  and  water  freely  to  stimulate  vigorous  growth. 
Caterpillar. — Spray  with  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  1  pound  to 
100  gallons  of  water. 

MELON 

Wilt. — Plant  on  fresh  soil.  Melons  cannot  be  grown  for  several 
years  on  infected  ground. 

Nematode. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Aphis. — Destroy  infested  plants  as  soon  as  insects  appear. 

Flea  Beetles. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  as  a 
repellant. 

NURSERY  STOCK 

Failure  to  Grow  after  Planting  in  Orchard. — Very  rarely  due  to 
specific  disease.  Usually  caused  by  freezing,  drying,  or  water-soaking 
of  trees  before  or  after  planting,  planting  too  deep,  cold,  wet  or  hot 
weather  after  planting,  or  some  other  condition  unfavorable  to  growth. 
Buy  of  the  nearest  reputable  nursery.  Pay  for  good  trees  and  see 
that  they  are  handled  and  planted  carefully.  Replant  all  that  do  not 
grow  well  the  first  season. 


10 

Nematode,  Crown  Gall. — Very  carefully  avoid  planting  affected 
trees.  The  clean-appearing  trees  in  a  lot  having  a  large  percentage 
of  infection  are  of  doubtful  value. 

Deciduous. — For  borers  and  other  insects,  fumigate  with  hydro- 
cyanic-acid gas.     Rejecting  infested  stock  is  the  only  safe  procedure. 

Citrus. — For  scale  insects,  defoliate  and  fumigate  with  hydro- 
cyanic-acid gas.     Rejecting  infested  stock  is  the  only  safe  procedure. 

OAT 

(See  Grain) 

OLIVE 

Die-hack  {Exanthema). — Cut  out  affected  branches.  Add  humus 
to  soil  by  green-manure  crops,  mulch  or  manure.  Secure  uniform  soil 
moisture  and  good  drainage.  Replace  olives  with  plums,  peaches  or 
some  other  crop  where  die-back  is  very  bad.  See  "Physiological  Dis- 
eases" under  "General  Subjects." 

Knot  (Tuberculosis). — Cut  out  at  first  appearance.  Disinfect  as 
in  Pear  Blight. 

Dry  Rot,  Bitter  Pit. — See  "Physiological  Diseases"  under  "Gen- 
eral Subjects."  No  effective  treatment  known  except  good  general 
care. 

Armillaria. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Black  Scale. — Spray  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  22)  or  miscible 
oil  during  winter  months. 

Bark  Beetle. — Cut  out  and  burn  infested  branches. 

ONION 

Mildew. — Not  successfully  controlled  in  wet  seasons.  Bordeaux 
mixture  found  useful  in  some  cases. 

Thrips. — Practice  clean  culture.  Spray  with  40  per  cent  nicotine 
sulfate,  1  pound  to  200  gallons  of  water. 

Maggots. — Leave  no  decayed  onions  in  field  during  winter.  Culti- 
vate thoroughly. 

Army  worms,  Cutworms. — See  ' '  General  Subjects. ' ' 

PEA 

Mildew,  Blight. — Dust  with  sulfur  at  first  appearance.  Repeat  if 
necessary. 

Aphis. — Repeated  applications  of  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate 
(Formula  27).  Field  control  is  difficult  and  usually  too  expensive. 
Tobacco  dust  may  be  tried. 

Weevil.— See  "Bean." 

Cutworms,  Armyworms. — See  "General  Subjects." 


11 


PEACH 

Armillaria,  Crown  Gall,  Nematode.— See  "General  Subjects." 

Little  Leaf. — See  "Physiological  Diseases"  under  "General  Sub- 
jects. ' ' 

Blight,  Curl  Leaf. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  (Formula  9),  or  lime- 
sulfur  1-10,  between  November  15  and  December  15.  Repeat  with 
lime-sulfur  when  buds  first  start  to  swell. 

Brown  Rot. — See  "Apricot." 

California  Peach-borer. — Dig  out  borers  thoroughly  in  the  fall  and 
apply  a  thick  coating  of  hot  Grade  C  or  D  hard  asphaltum. 

Peach  Twig-borer. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10  in  spring  just 
as  buds  are  swelling. 

Pear  Thrips.—See  "Pear." 

San  Jose  Scale. — See  "Apple." 

Tent  Caterpillars. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Cankerworms. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Red  Spider. — See  "Almond." 

Combined  Spraying 

Two  applications  of  lime-sulfur  as  recommended  above  will  control 
all  the  usual  diseases  and  pests  of  the  peach  tree  in  California  which 
can  be  reached  by  any  spray  treatment. 

PEAR 

Black  Leaf. — See  "Sour  Sap"  under  "General  Subjects." 

Blight. — Cut  out  all  affected  parts  very  thoroughly.  Work 
especially  on  "hold-over"  in  large  limbs,  trunks  and  roots  during 
the  winter.  Disinfect  freely  with  corrosive  sublimate  1-1000.  Keep 
off  all  suckers  and  spurs  from  root  and  body.  In  new  plantings  in 
blight  regions,  top-work  Bartlett  and  other  susceptible  varieties  upon 
Surprise  or  other  fairly  immune  varieties  on  Japanese  root. 

Scab. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-12  or  Bordeaux  (Formula  9) 
just  as  leaf  buds  are  opening.     Repeat  when  first  blossoms  are  open. 

Codling  Moth.— See  "Apple." 

Slug.— See  "Cherry." 

Pear  Thrips. — Spray  as  soon  as  insects  appear  with  oil  emulsion 
(Formula  24)  or  miscible  oil,  to  which  may  be  added  1  part  of  40 
per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  to  every  2000  parts  of  the  spray  mixture. 

Blister  Mite. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur,  1-10,  as  cluster  buds  are 
opening. 

Red-humped  Caterpillar.- — See  "Prune." 


12 

Root  Aphis. — Use  Japanese  root.  Eliminate  young,  stunted  trees 
and  replant  with  healthy'  ones.  Expose  roots  and  pour  in  quantity 
of  oil  emulsion  or  miscible  oil  spray  (Formula  23). 

Green  Apple  Aphis. — See  "Apple." 

Combined  Spraying 

1.  When  scale  of  any  kind  is  abundant  and  for  moss  and  general 
clean-up,  winter  spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10,  crude  oil  emulsion 
(Formula  18),  or  miscible  oil. 

2.  For  scab  and  thrip  use  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  or  lime- 
sulfur  1-10  as  cluster  buds  are  opening,  adding  an  extra  10  pounds 
of  lime  and  1  pound  of  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  to  each  200  gallons 
of  spray.  Oil  sprays  cannot  be  mixed  with  lime-sulfur  or  Bordeaux 
for  this  purpose. 

3.  For  scab  and  thrip,  repeat  2  when  first  blossoms  are  about  to 
open. 

4.  For  codling  moth  and  late  scab  infection,  spray  when  petals 
are  falling  with  8  pounds  of  lead  arsenate  in  200  gallons  of  1-30 
lime-sulfur  or  200  gallons  of  Bordeaux  mixture. 

PLUM,    PRUNE 

Armillaria,  Crown  Gall,  Soar  Sap. — See  "General  Subjects." 
Brown  Rot. — Not  often  serious.    See  "Apricot." 
Tent  Caterpillars,  Cankerworms. — See  "General  Subjects." 
Red  Spider. — See  "Almond." 
San  Jose  Scale. — See  "Apple." 
Pear  Thrips. — See  "Pear." 

Red-humped   Caterpillar. — Hand-pick  young   colonies   and  spray 
trees  with  basic  lead  arsenate,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 
Brown  Apricot  Scale. — See  "Apricot." 
Black  Scale. — See  "Apricot." 
California  Peach-borer. — See  "Peach." 
Peach  Twig-borer. — See  "Peach." 
Flat-headed  Apple-tree  Borer. — See  "Apple." 

Combined  Spraying 

For  scale,  moss,  and  general  clean-up,  spray  in  winter  with  oil 
emulsion  (Formula  18  or  23)  or  miscible  oil. 

POTATO 

Wilt,  Dry  Rot,  Scab,  Rhizoctonia. — Obtain  clean  seed  from  healthy 
plants.    Discard  any  which  show  decided  dark  brown  discoloration  or 


13 

decay  at  stem  end  to  a  depth  of  at  least  ^  incn  from  the  end.  Soak 
the  seed  before  cutting  for  iy2  hours  in  a  solution  of  1-1000  corrosive 
sublimate  (1  ounce  to  8  gallons  of  water),  or  two  hours  in  formalde- 
hyde, 1  pound  to  30  gallons  of  water.  Use  a  wooden  vessel  for  the 
sublimate. 

Jelly  End,  Soft  Rot. — Avoid  injuring  and  bruising  in  digging. 

Nematode. — Use  clean  seed  and  avoid  infested  soil. 

Army  worms,  Cutworms,  Grasshoppers. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Flea  Beetles. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  as 
repellant. 

Tobacco  Worm,  Tomato  Worm. — Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead,  2 
pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 

Wireworms. — Rotate  crops,  replant  in  spring  or  later  if  seed  is 
destroyed.     Practice  clean  culture. 

Tuber  Moth. — Cultivate  thoroughly,  hill  vines,  harvest  early,  fumi- 
gate infested  tubers  with  carbon  bisulfide,  10  to  30  pounds  per  thou- 
sand cubic  feet  of  air  space.    Be  sure  to  plant  clean  seed. 

ROSE 

Mildew. — Spray  with  lime-sulfur  1-10  before  spring  growth  starts. 
Use  dry  sulfur,  sulfur  paste,  or  lime-sulfur  1-35  when  disease  first 
appears.  Forty  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate,  recommended  below  for 
aphis,  may  be  added  to  this. 

Aphis. — Wash  frequently  with  water  under  high  pressure.  Spray 
with  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate,  1  pound  to  200  gallons  of  water. 

White  Rose  Scale. — Spray  with  oil  emulsion  (Formula  18  or  23) 
or  miscible  oil  in  winter.- 

San  Jose  Scale. — See  "Apple." 

Combined  Spraying 
For  fungous  diseases  and  aphis,  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  may 
be  added  to  sulfur  sprays  as  given  above. 

SNAPDRAGON 

Rust. — Water  and  fertilize  freely  to  stimulate  growth.  Destroy 
badly  affected  plants  and  clean  up  thoroughly  in  fall.  Pentstemon  is 
a  fairly  good  substitute  for  Snapdragons  and  does  not  rust. 

SORGHUMS,    SUDAN    GRASS 

Smut.— Controlled  by  seed  treatment.     See  "Grain." 
Aphis. — Water  and  cultivation  to  stimulate  growth. 
Grasshoppers,  Army  worms,  Cutworms. — See  "General  Subjects." 


14 


STRAWBERRY 

Leaf  Spot. — Clean  up"  and  burn  leaves  in  late  fall.  Spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture   (Formula  9)  if  disease  becomes  serious. 

Boot  and  Stem  Rot. — Use  less  water.  Improve  drainage.  Wash 
out  alkali  in  winter  by  flooding. 

Aphis. — Spray  with  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate,  1  pound  to  200 
gallons  of  water  as  soon  as  insects  appear. 

Flea  Beetle. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  as  re- 
pellant. 

Crown  Borer. — Eliminate  and  burn  infested  plants  as  soon  as 
discovered. 

SWEET  POTATO 

Wilt,  Black  Rot. — Get  clean  seed  potatoes  from  an  uninfested 
locality.    Destroy  diseased  vines  after  digging. 

Soft  Bot. — Avoid  bruising.  Dry  well  before  storing.  For  long 
keeping,  pack  in  dry  sand. 

TOMATO 

Damping-off. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Wilt,  Summer  Blight. — Use  plants  free  from  damping-off.  Replant 
if  not  too  late.    Cannot  be  controlled  some  years. 

Late  Blight,  Late  Bot. — Occurs  in  late  fall  or  winter  crop.  Spray 
with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  immediately  after  rains. 

Blossom  End  Bot. — Avoid  drouth  or  irregular  irrigation. 

Nematode. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Grasshoppers,  Cutworms,  Army  worms. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Flea-beetles. — Use  Bordeaux  mixture  (Formula  9)  as  repellant. 

Tobacco  Worm.— See  "Potato." 

Tomato  Worm. — See  "Potato." 

WALNUT 

Blight. — No  specific  remedy.  Give  trees  best  possible  care.  Thin 
out  tops  of  old  trees.    Control  aphis.    Plant  resistant  varieties. 

Melaxuma. — Cut  out  diseased  bark  areas  and  apply  Bordeaux 
paste. 

Crown  Gall,  Armillaria. — See  "General  Subjects." 

Winter  Killing. — Irrigate  about  November  1  if  no  good  rains  have 
fallen.  Whitewash  bodies  in  the  fall.  Do  not  irrigate  after  August, 
except  as  above. 

Aphis. — Very  thorough  spraying  with  lime-sulfur  1-20  just  before 
buds  open  is  effective,  but  slow  and  expensive.  The  insects  are  easily 
killed  with  a  summer  spray  of  40  per  cent  nicotine  sulfate  (Formula 


15 

27),  but  this  method  is  also  too  slow  for  a  large  acreage  of  good-sized 
trees.  Dusting  with  finely  powdered  tobacco  is  a  promising  method 
for  rapid  and  effective  work.  With  either  spraying  or  dusting,  con- 
trol is  much  easier  if  the  work  is  done  early  in  the  summer  before 
the  foliage  becomes  very  dense  and  the  aphis  extremely  abundant. 

Yellow-necked  Apple  Caterpillar,  Bed-humped  Apple  Caterpillar. — 
Spray  with  lead  arsenate,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water.  Hand-pick 
young  colonies. 

WHEAT 

(See  "Grain.") 

GENERAL  SUBJECTS 

ANTS 

For  the  Argentine  ant,  place  a  sponge  in  a  fruit  jar,  saturate  it 
with  poisoned  syrup  (Formula  7  or  8),  make  a  few  nailholes  in  the 
cover  and  keep  the  jar  in  pantry  and  several  others  in  the  yard  about 
the  house.  Add  more  poison  from  time  to  time,  label  carefully  and 
keep  away  from  children. 

APHIDS    (PLANT  LICE) 

Almost  all  species  can  be  controlled  by  spraying  with  40  per  cent 
nicotine  sulfate,  1  pound  to  200  gallons  of  water.  Weak  oil  emulsions 
are  also  effective.  Tobacco  dust  has  been  found  useful  in  some  cases 
and  is  usually  more  quickly  and  easily  applied  than  liquid  sprays.  All 
these  materials  kill  by  contact  and  so  when  the  insects  are  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves  they  must  be  actually  hit  with  the  spray  to 
be  killed. 

ARMILLARIA  ROOT   ROT    (OAK   FUNGUS) 

No  specific  treatment.  Surgery  as  in  Crown  Gall  or  Pear  Blight 
can  sometimes  be  practiced  on  roots  and  crowns  of  trees  not  too  far 
gone.  Black  walnut,  French  pear  and  fig  roots  are  practically  immune. 
Affected  areas  in  orchard  may  be  isolated  by  opening  a  trench  3  to  4 
feet  deep,  around  them.  This  may  be  immediately  refilled  if  reopened 
every  two  years  to  keep  roots  cut  off. 

CANKERWORMS 

Use  tanglefoot  bands  or  cotton  bands  during  fall  and  spring. 
Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 

CROWN   GALL 

Throw  out  all  affected  nursery  trees.  The  clean  trees  in  a  lot  hav- 
ing a  large  percentage  affected  are  of  doubtful  value.  In  orchard, 
occasionally  examine   crown  and  main  roots,   especially   of  stunted 


16 

trees.  When  not  too  far  advanced,  the  galls  may  be  chiseled  out, 
sterilized  with  1-1000  corrosive  sublimate  (Formula  28),  and  the 
wounds  covered  with  Bordeaux  paste  or  asphaltum.  Badly  affected 
and  stunted  trees  should  be  pulled  out  and  replanted,  using  fresh  soil. 

CUTWORMS  AND  ARMYWORMS 

Broadcast  freely  poison  bran  mash  (Formula  4  or  5)  in  front  of 
invading  insects  or  over  infested  plants. 

DAM  PING-OFF 

Best  controlled  by  skill  in  watering.  Water  plant  beds  only  in 
morning  and  on  bright  days.  Do  not  sprinkle  oftener  than  necessary. 
In  greenhouses  or  frames  give  plenty  of  ventilation.  In  making  citrus 
seed  beds,  put  an  inch  or  two  of  clean  sand  on  the  top  of  the  soil.  Some 
forms  of  Damping-off  may  be  prevented  by  steam-sterilizing  the  soil 
before  planting  or  by  drenching  with  a  solution  of  4  pounds  of  for- 
maldehyde in  50  gallons  of  water,  using  1  gallon  of  solution  to  every 
square  foot.  This  must  be  done  two  weeks  in  advance  so  that  no  odor 
of  formalin  remains  at  planting  time.  Where  Damping-off  has 
started,  spraying  the  plants  and  ground  with  Bordeaux  may  do  some 
good. 

FLIES 

Should  be  prevented  from  breeding  by  keeping  manure,  garbage 
and  similar  refuse  material  covered  tightly.  For  poisoning  flies  in 
the  house  use  about  2  per  cent  formaldehyde  solution  exposed  in 
saucers,  adding  a  little  sugar. 

FROST 

With  young  citrus  trees  in  frosty  localities,  wrap  trunks  with  corn 
or  milo  stalks  in  winter.  Heap  up  earth  around  butts.  Enclose  tender 
valuable  young  trees  with  burlap  covers.  For  bearing  groves  obtain 
detailed  information  about  methods  and  appliances  for  smudging  with 
oil  fuel.     (See  also  Sour  Sap.) 

GRASSHOPPERS 

Scatter  freely  poison  bran  mash  or  citrus  bran  mash  (Formula 
4  or  5 ) .  Be  sure  to  mix  the  bran  and  poison  as  a  dry  mash  and  scatter 
in  alfalfa  fields  about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  around  orchard 
trees  or  other  plants  early  in  the  morning. 

GUMMOSIS 

Not  a  specific  disease.  Many  different  causes.  In  stone  fruit  and 
citrus  trees  gumming  is  simply  a  symptom  of  distress.  May  be  due 
to  unsuitable  soil,  poor  condition  of  soil,  excess  or  lack  of  water,  frost 
or  attacks  of  parasites.     Treatment  must  vary  according  to  cause. 


17 

Badly  gummed  branches  may  be  removed,  gummy  diseased  areas  of 
bark  cut  out  and  the  wounds  treated  as  in  citrus  gummosis.  Splitting 
the  bark  is  useless  and  often  harmful. 

NEMATODE    (EEL  WORM) 

Do  not  attempt  to  grow  susceptible  crops  on  infested  soil.  Keep 
such  areas  clean  cultivated  in  summer  or  in  a  cereal  crop.  Grain 
may  be  grown  in  winter.  Almost  all  important  crops  except  cereals 
and  also  fruit  trees,  are  attacked  by  the  garden  nematode.  The  beet 
nematode  attacks  some  other  plants,  and  where  it  occurs  careful  rota- 
tions should  be  followed  with  the  total  exclusion  of  beets  for  many 
years.  Alfalfa  is  not  seriously  affected  by  the  common  species,  but 
carries  it  over  to  future  crops.  This  crop  may  be  safely  planted  on 
beet  nematode  soil.    Nematodes  are  worst  on  sandy  soil. 

PHYSIOLOGIAL    DISEASES 

(Little  Leaf,  Exanthema,  Die-back,  Mottled  Leaf,  Eosette,  Bitter  Pit, 
Dry  Eot,  Blossom-end  Eot) 

Diseases  of  a  specific  nature  in  which  the  cause  is  not  known  and 
which  seem  unlike  the  usual  effects  of  unfavorable  conditions  or  para- 
sites. Most  of  these  troubles  show  a  relation  to  soil  conditions  and 
occur  especially  in  dry,  sandy,  gravelly,  or  hard-pan  soils,  those  very 
deficient  in  humus,  or  under  conditions  of  irregular  soil  moisture. 
Trees  standing  over  old  barnyards  or  corrals  or  where  excessive 
amounts  of  manure  have  been  applied  are  also  likely  to  show  some  of 
these  conditions.  The  best  possibilities  of  treatment  lie  along  the  line 
of  increasing  the  humus  content  of  the  soil  by  means  of  green-manure 
crops  and  mulches,  breaking  up  all  hard-pan  and  plow-soles,  more 
careful  irrigation  to  insure  the  maintenance  of  a  proper  and  uniform 
moisture  condition  of  the  soil  down  to  a  depth  of  several  feet,  and 
throughout  the  season  until  rains  occur,  and  planting  of  alfalfa  in 
orchards  where  plenty  of  water  is  available.  The  soil  in  areas  where 
these  troubles  occur  should  be  examined  for  alkali  or  other  injurious 
substances.  Where  any  of  these  diseases  are  serious  and  persistent  it 
may  be  better  to  grow  some  other  crop  than  to  keep  on  with  one  which 
is  seriously  affected. 

RABBITS 

If  very  abundant,  must  be  fenced  out  of  young  orchards  and 
gardens  to  avoid  serious  damage.  Shooting  and  poisoning  are  the 
principal  means  of  destruction.  An  application  to  the  trunks  of  young 
trees  of  whitewash  containing  bitter  aloes  is  sometimes  recommended, 
but  this  has  not  shown  much  value  in  actual  practice.  The  same 
may  be  said  in  regard  to  smearing  the  trunks  with  blood. 


18 


SLUGS   AND   SNAILS 

May  be  controlled  to  some  extent  by  sprinkling  dry  lime  dust  upon 
the  ground  in  circles  about  the  plants,  upon  the  leaves  of  the  plants 
themselves  or  in  any  way  so  that  the  slugs  will  come  in  contact  with  the 
lime.  A  mixture  of  salt  with  the  lime  is  sometimes  recommended. 
This,  however,  is  injurious  to  plants  if  it  comes  in  contact  with  them. 
May  also  be  trapped  by  laying  boards  upon  the  ground  near  the  plants 
upon  which  they  feed,  thus  affording  a  shelter  under  which  they  may 
be  found  and  killed. 

SOUR    SAP,    WINTER    INJURY 

All  the  ordinary  forms  of  Sour  Sap  are  due  to  freezing,  alternate 
warm  and  cold  weather,  or  other  climatic  injury  in  winter.  Differ- 
ences in  the  effect  upon  individual  trees  or  orchards  are  due  to  differ- 
ences in  condition  and  susceptibility  of  the  trees,  produced  mostly  by 
variation  in  the  moisture  condition  of  the  soil.  Do  not  force  growth 
late  in  summer.  Irrigate,  if  possible,  about  November  1  if  no  heavy 
rain  has  fallen.    Whitewash  bodies  of  trees  early  in  November. 

SQUIRRELS  AND   GOPHERS 

May  be  controlled  by  persistent  poisoning,  fumigation  with  carbon 
bisulfide,  trapping  and  shooting.  For  poisoning  material,  the  com- 
mercial preparations  may  be  used  or  Formula  33. 

Poisoned  Fruit. — Strychnine  sulfate  may  be  sprinkled  over  orange 
halves  or  watermelon  rind,  or  a  solution  of  1  ounce  of  strychnine  sul- 
fate dissolved  in  1  gallon  of  boiling  water  may  be  used  for  saturating 
grain  or  other  material,  after  allowing  the  solution  to  cool. 

SUNBURN 

Whitewash  bodies  in  fall  as  well  as  spring.  Shape  the  trees  so  as 
to  shade  bodies.  Cut  young  trees  back  well  before  planting.  Shade 
trunks  with  shakes  or  protectors.  Do  not  allow  trees  to  suffer  from 
drouth. 

TENT  CATERPILLARS 

Cut  out  and  burn  nests.  Colonies  collected  on  the  trunk  may  be 
killed  by  spraying  with  gasoline  or  oil  emulsion.  Cut  out  egg  masses 
at  pruning  time.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead,  2  pounds  to  50  gallons 
of  water. 

TREE  WOUNDS,   PRUNING   CUTS 

Make  a  clean,  smooth  cut,  trimming  the  bark  down  smoothly  to 
sound  tissues  around  the  edges.  In  the  case  of  branches,  make  a 
smooth  cut,  leaving  no  projecting  stub.    Thoroughly  cover  the  wound 


19 

with  Bordeaux  paste  (Formula  10)  and  after  callus  starts  to  form 
about  the  edges,  cover  with  grade  D  asphaltum  or  similar  material  put 
on  in  a  melted  condition.  Go  over  the  work  occasionally,  especially  in 
the  fall,  and  renew  the  application  of  asphaltum  until  wound  is 
entirely  healed. 


FORMULAS  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF  MATERIALS 

ARSENICALS 

Acid  Lead  Arsenate  (Lead  Hydrogen  Arsenate,  Di-lead  Arsenate, 
often  labeled  "Standard"  or  Lead  Arsenate). — The  acid  type  of  lead 
arsenate  contains  more  poison  per  pound  than  the  basic  type  and  is 
a  stronger  and  quicker-acting  poison.  It  is,  however,  somewhat 
susceptible  to  the  action  of  other  chemicals,  particularly  those  of  an 
alkaline  nature  (such  as  soaps,  lime-sulfur  solution,  etc.),  and  is  more 
or  less  dissolved  by  them  when  used  as  a  combination  spray.  In  the 
moist  climates  along  the  coast,  or  in  continuous  damp,  cloudy  weather 
elsewhere,  whether  used  alone  or  in  combination  with  other  sprays, 
some  of  the  arsenic  is  apt  to  be  dissolved  and  cause  serious  foliage 
injury.  It  is  not  considered  as  a  safe  arsenical  for  use  on  stone  fruits, 
beans  or  other  susceptible  plants. 

Basic  Lead  Arsenate  (Usually  labeled  " Tri-plurnbic"  or  "Neu- 
tral").— The  basic  type  of  lead  arsenate  contains  less  arsenic  per 
pound  than  the  acid  type,  and  is  a  weaker  and  slower-acting  poison. 
It  is  not  decomposed,  however,  by  chemicals  of  an  alkaline  nature, 
such  as  are  usually  applied  with  it  as  a  combination  spray,  nor  by 
the  damp  weather  of  the  coast  regions.  It  is  considered  the  only  safe 
arsenical  to  use  on  stone  fruits,  beans  or  other  susceptible  plants. 

The  lead  arsenates  are  usually  sold  as  a  paste  containing  about 
50  per  cent  of  water,  or  as  a  dry  powder.  The  paste  should  be  thinned 
somewhat  with  water  and  worked  into  a  smooth  cream  before  adding 
to  the  spray  tank.  The  powder  may  be  added  directly  to  the  tank  and 
mixed  by  means  of  the  agitator. 

For  codling  moth  and  most  defoliating  insects,  use: 

Formula  1 

Acid  lead  arsenate  paste 4  to  8  pounds 

Water    100  gallons 

or 

Formula  2 

Basic  lead  arsenate  paste 5  to  10  pounds 

Water 100  gallons 


20 

Dry  or  powdered  lead  arsenate  contains  twice  as  much  arsenic  as 
the  paste,  therefore  use  only  one-half  as  much  in  the  above  formulas. 

Zinc  Arsenite  is  a  more  active  and  stronger  poison  than  either 
type  of  lead  arsenate  and  is  useful  in  controlling  the  various  cater- 
pillars which  are  troublesome  on  pears  and  apples  in  the  early  spring, 
but  is  very  apt  to  cause  injury  if  the  application  is  made  after  the 
time  of  full  bloom. 

Formula  3 

Zinc  arsenite  powder 3  pounds 

Water    100  gallons 

White  Arsenic  (Arsenic  trioxide)  is  only  sparingly  soluble  in 
water,  although  sufficiently  so  to  prohibit  its  use  on  plants  as  an 
insecticide.  Its  use  as  a  stomach  poison  is  therefore  limited  to  the 
preparation  of  poison  baits,  for  the  control  of  grasshoppers,  army- 
worms,  cutworms,  etc.,  and  in  some  other  ^cases  where  the  insecticide 
is  not  to  be  applied  to  growing  plants. 

Poison  Bran-mash. — 

Formula  4 

Bran 25  pounds 

White  arsenic  1  pound 

•    Molasses   (cheap  blackstrap  preferred)  2  quarts 

Mix  the  arsenic  and  the  bran  dry,  and  add  the  molasses  which  has 
been  diluted  with  water.  Add  enough  water  and  mix  thoroughly  to 
make  a  dry  mash  which  will  broadcast  easily. 

Citrus  Bran-mash. — 

Formula  5 

White  arsenic 1  pound 

Molasses  (cheap  blackstrap  preferred)  2  quarts 

Lemons   (or  oranges) 6  fruits 

Water  (about)  4  gallons 

Bran    25  pounds 

Mix  the  above  materials  as  follows:  Stir  thoroughly  the  white 
arsenic,  molasses,  and  water  first.  Grind  the  lemons,  including  the 
rinds,  in  a  meat  grinder,  or  chop  fine,  and  add  to  this  liquid.  Then 
slowly  pour  this  over  the  bran  and  stir  thoroughly  until  an  even 
mixture  is  secured. 

The  amount  of  water  to  use  in  the  preparation  of  these  baits  will 
vary  according  to  the  coarseness  of  the  bran,  or  substitutes.  A  dry 
mash  is  preferable  to  a  wet  mash  because  it  does  not  harden  under  the 
heat  of  the  sun  and  remains  palatable,  while  wet  mash  becomes  baked 
and  unattractive. 


21 

Substitutes  in  Poison  Baits. — Paris  green  may  be  substituted  for 
white  arsenic  in  formulas  4  and  5.  Alfalfa  meal,  shorts,  or  rice  meal, 
have  been  successfully  used  as  a  substitute  for  bran  in  the  preparation 
of  the  above  formulas. 

Sodium  Arsenate. — This  arsenical  is  readily  soluble  in  water  and 
is  one  of  the  most  violent  of  the  plant  poisons.  It  is  probably  the 
most  quick-acting  of  any  of  the  better  known  arsenical  poisons,  and 
commonly  used  in  the  preparation  of  weed  killers,  poison  fly-papers, 
cattle  dips  for  the  control  of  ticks,  ant  syrups,  and  to  some  extent 
in  the  preparation  of  poison  baits. 

Sodium  arsenite  may  be  purchased  ready-made  as  a  white  powder, 
but  it  is  not  always  readily  obtained  at  pharmacies,  nor  is  it  always 
dependable  in  having  a  uniform  amount  of  arsenic.  This  chemical 
can  be  easily  prepared  from  white  arsenic  by  combining  the  latter  in 
the  presence  of  water  with  sal  soda,  soda-ash,  caustic  soda,  or  a  good 
grade  of  concentrated  lye  in  the  following  proportions : 

Sal  soda  or  washing  soda,  2  parts  to  1  part  of  white  arsenic. 
Soda-ash,  1  part  to  1  part  of  white  arsenic. 
Caustic  soda,  1  part  to  2  parts  of  white  arsenic. 
Concentrated  lye,  1  part  to  2  parts  of  white  arsenic. 

If  sal  soda  or  soda  ash  is  used  it  is  necessary  to  boil  the  mixture 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  before  the  arsenic  is  dissolved.  If  caustic 
soda  or  concentrated  lye  is  used,  little  or  no  heat  is  necessary.  In 
either  case,  a  corrosive  chemical  is  formed  known  as  sodium  arsenite. 

A  soluble  arsenical  can  be  made  by  using  one  part  of  caustic  soda 
to  four  parts  of  arsenic  trioxide.  Such  a  solution,  however,  has  a 
tendency  to  form  crystals  on  standing. 

Sodium  Arsenite. — 

Formula  6 

Sal  soda 2  ounces   (or  2  pounds) 

White  arsenic 1  ounce   (or  1  pound) 

"Water  (about)  %  pint   (or  1  gallon) 

Put  all  the  ingredients  together  in  an  iron  or  graniteware  kettle 
(do  not  use  aluminum),  of  sufficient  size  to  allow  for  considerable 
frothing,  and  boil  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until  solution  is  clear. 

A  modification  of  Professor  C.  W.  Woodworth's  formula  which  has 

been  successfully  used  in  municipal  campaigns  against  the  Argentine 

ant  is  as  follows: 

Argentine  Ant  Syrup — 

Formula  7 

Sugar 18  pounds 

Water    - 6  quarts 


22 

First  dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water  by  stirring,  or  by  heating  and 
stirring,  then  add  one  ounce  of  white  arsenic  which  has  been  pre- 
viously converted  into  sodium  arsenite,  according  to  the  directions 
given  in  formula  6,  and  add  enough  water  to  make  exactly  three 
gallons.  This  formula  will  produce  a  syrup  containing  .2  of  1  per  cent 
of  arsenic  trioxide  by  weight. 

The  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Entomology  recommends  a  later  formula  for 
the  preparation  of  Argentine  ant  syrup  which  is  said  to  be  superior 
to  any  other  formula  tested  by  them,  "on  account  of  its  stability  at 
high  temperatures,  freedom  from  crystalization,  and  continued  attrac- 
tiveness. ' ' 

Government  Argentine  Ant  Syrup. — 

Formula  8 
Prepare  a  syrup : 

Granulated  sugar 15  pounds 

Water 7  pints 

Tartaric  acid  (crystalized)  *4  ounce 

Boil  for  30  minutes.    Allow  to  cool. 

Dissolve  sodium  arsenite  (chemically  pure)     %  ounce 

In  hot  water 1  pint 

Cool.    Add  poison  solution  to  syrup  and  stir  well. 
Add  to  poisoned  syrup  : 

Honey  iy2  pounds 

Mix  thoroughly. 

COPPER   COMPOUNDS 

Bordeaux  Mixture  (Average  Strength) . — 

Formula  9 

Bluestone    16  pounds 

Quicklime   20  pounds 

Water    200  gallons 

Dissolve  the  bluestone  and  slake  the  lime  in  separate  vats.  Thor- 
oughly mix  the  dissolved  bluestone  with  one-half  the  water,  and  the 
slaked  lime  with  the  other  half.  Run  the  two  mixtures  together  in  a 
single  stream  into  the  spray  tank  through  a  fine  screen.  For  con- 
venience the  mixing  vats  may  be  placed  on  an  elevated  platform,  and 
the  two  parts  mixed  as  they  are  flowing  into  the  spray  tank.  The 
milk  of  lime  should  be  continuously  stirred  during  the  mixing. 

A  somewhat  less  satisfactory  Bordeaux  mixture  may  be  made  as 
follows :  Slake  the  lime  and  dissolve  the  bluestone  in  separate  barrels 
as  above.  Fill  the  spray  tank  half  full  of  water,  add  the  dissolved 
bluestone,  strain  in  the  lime  while  the  agitator  is  running,  add  re- 
mainder of  water,  and  mix  thoroughly. 


23 

Bordeaux  Paste. — 

Formula  10 

A — Bluestone  12  pounds 

Water  8  gallons 

B — Quicklime 24  pounds 

Water  8  gallons 

Dissolve  the  bluestone  and  slake  the  lime  separately  in  the  amounts 
of  water  specified.  Then  mix  together  equal  quantities  of  each  in- 
gredient, making  up  only  enough  for  each  day's  use. 

Commercial  Bordeaux  Mixture. — Several  preparations  of  this  sort 
are  on  the  market  in  the  form  of  a  paste  or  dry  powder  to  be  diluted 
with  water.  Objection  is  sometimes  made  to  these  preparations  that 
they  will  not  remain  in  suspension  in  water  as  well  as  the  home-made 
Bordeaux  mixture,  but  some  of  them  are  probably  as  good  or  better 
than  the  average  mixture  prepared  on  the  ranch.  The  commercial 
preparations  are  more  expensive  but  more  convenient  for  use,  and 
are  especially  of  interest  to  the  small  grower. 

Bluestone  {Copper  Sulfate). — A  soluble  compound  of  copper,  the 
raw  material  for  the  preparation  of  most  other  compounds  of  copper. 
This  cannot  be  used  on  foliage. 
For  dipping  grain  use 

Formula  11 

Bluestone    1  pound 

Water 4  gallons 

Dip  for  3  minutes. 

Followed  by 

Quicklime  1  pound 

Slaked  in  water 10  gallons 

For  lemon  ivash  water  use 

Formula  12 

Bluestone 11/2  pounds 

Water    1000  gallons 

SULFUR  AND  SULFUR  COMPOUNDS 

Dry  Sulfur. — For  dusting  upon  plants  for  the  control  of  surface 
mildew,  red  spider,  or  other  parasites,  the  fineness  of  the  sulfur  is 
an  all-important  consideration.  Flowers  of  sulfur,  the  finest  and 
fluffiest  grade  of  sublimed  sulfur,  has  been  heretofore  recommended 
for  application  as  a  dust.  At  present,  however,  there  are  upon  the 
market  several  brands  of  extremely  finely  ground  sulfurs,  which  are 
finer  than  the  best  grade  of  sublimed  sulfur  and  no  more  expensive. 
Some  of  these  sulfurs,  which  have  been  specially  prepared  for  dusting, 
are  ground  to  pass  a  200-mesh  bolting  cloth.    These  are  apt  to  cake  or 


24 

to  clog  the  dusting  apparatus.  If  three  parts  of  sulfur  are  thoroughly 
mixed  with  one  part  of  hydrated  lime,  kaolin,  or  other  inert  powder, 
these  difficulties  may  be  avoided. 

Sulfur  Piastes  or  Wettable  Sulfurs. — For  various  reasons  it  is  often 
desirable  to  mix  sulfur  and  water  and  apply  to  plants  as  a  spray. 
Sulfur,  however,  is  not  easily  wetted  with  water  and  it  is  a  difficult 
matter  to  make  a  uniform  mixture  of  the  two.  It  has  been  found  that 
a  number  of  substances,  soap,  oleic  acid,  glue,  diatomaceous  earth, 
flour,  dextrin,  etc.,  when  mixed  with  water  and  sulfur,  have  the  prop- 
erty of  counteracting  the  natural  aversion  of  sulfur  to  water  without 
otherwise  altering  the  nature  of  the  sulfur.  Certain  of  these  sub- 
stances have  been  used  in  the  preparation  of  commercial  sulfur  pastes 
or  wettable  sulfurs.  These  commercial  pastes,  as  now  manufactured, 
contain  from  45  to  50  per  cent  of  sulfur  in  a  very  finely  divided  con- 
dition, the  remainder  being  water  and  one  of  the  substances  mentioned 
above.  The  effect  of  these  pastes  is  that  of  dry  sulfur.  The  usual 
strength  to  use  is 

Formula  13 

Commercial  sulfur  paste 8  to  21  pounds 

Water 100  gallons 

Home-made  Wettable  Sulfur. — A  satisfactory  wettable  sulfur  can 
be  easily  made  at  home  by  the  use  of  glue  water  as  follows : 

Formula  14 

Powdered  glue  %  ounce 

Hot  water  1%  gallons 

Sulfur  (flowers  or  powdered)  5  pounds 

Water  to  make 100  gallons 

Dissolve  the  glue  in  hot  water,  or  soak  over  night  in  1%  gallons 
of  cold  water.  Add  the  glue  water  to  the  sulfur  a  little  at  a  time  and 
work  up  into  a  smooth  paste  as  free  from  lumps  as  possible.  Rub- 
bing is  better  than  stirring.  Wash  this  paste  into  the  spray  tank 
through  a  fine  screen,  using  the  remainder  of  the  glue  water  to  wash 
it  through  and  a  stiff  brush  to  break  up  the  remainder  of  the  lumps. 
Then  add  plain  water  to  make  100  gallons. 

Another  formula  more  expensive  than  the  above  is 

Formula  15 
Make  a  paste  of 

Flour  4  pounds 

Water 4  gallons 

Mix  this  with 

Sulfur  (sublimed  or  powdered) 5  pounds 

Then  add 

Water  to  make 100  gallons 


25 

The  usual  grades  of  sublimed  or  powdered  sulfur  may  be  wetted 
in  the  manner  described  in  Formulas  14  and  15,  but  if  the  best  results 
are  to  be  obtained,  the  finest  grade  of  sulfur  obtainable  should  be  used. 
The  sulfurs  especially  prepared  for  dusting  are  highly  recommended 
for  this  purpose. 

Lime-sulfur  Solution. — This  is  the  most  active  form  in  which  sul- 
fur compounds  are  commonly  used  in  the  control  of  insects  or  fungi. 
Its  causticity  prohibits  its  use  on  foliage  except  that  of  the  more 
hardy  plants,  and  then  in  very  dilute  form.  Its  largest  use  is  as  a 
dormant  spray  for  the  controlof  certain  fungous  diseases,  scale  insects 
and  a  variety  of  other  pests  of  deciduous  trees. 

Commercial  Lime-sulfur  Solution. — The  growers  of  the  state  are 
being  supplied  with  concentrated  commercial  lime-sulfur  solution  of 
good  quality  and  at  reasonable  prices.  The  great  bulk  of  this  im- 
portant pest  remedy  used  in  the  state  is  therefore  of  commercial 
manufacture,  testing  between  32°  and  34°  Baume.  It  is  only  neces- 
sary to  dilute  this  with  water  before  spraying. 

Home-made  Lime-sulfur  Solution. — 

Formula  17 

Stone  Lime  50  pounds 

Sulfur  (sublimed  or  powdered)  100  pounds 

Water  to  make 50  gallons 

Heat  in  a  cooking  barrel  or  vessel  about  one-third  of  the  total 
volume  of  water  required.  When  the  water  is  hot,  add  all  of  the 
lime,  and  at  once  add  all  the  sulfur,  which  should  previously  have  been 
made  into  a  thick  paste  with  water.  After  the  lime  is  slaked,  another 
third  of  the  water  should  be  added,  preferably  hot,  and  the  cooking 
should  be  continued  until  a  clear  orange-colored  solution  is  obtained 
(usually  45  to  60  minutes),  when  the  remainder  of  the  water  should 
be  added,  either  hot  or  cold  as  is  most  convenient.  The  boiling  due 
to  the  slaking  of  the  lime  thoroughly  mixes  the  ingredients  at  the 
start,  but  subsequent  stirring  is  necessary  if  the  wash  is  cooked  by 
direct  heat  in  a  kettle.  After  the  wash  has  been  prepared  it  must 
be  allowed  to  settle  and  then  strained  through  a  fine  sieve  as  it  is 
being  run  into  the  spray  tank.  The  resultant  product  is  a  concen- 
trated solution  of  lime-sulfur,  which  should  be  diluted  about  six  times 
with  water  for  a  winter  spray. 

Alkali  Sulfides. — Sulfides  of  soda  ("soluble  sulfur")  are  some- 
times used  in  place  of  lime-sulfur  solution  and  have  some  advantages 
over  the  liquid  preparations. 


26 

CRUDE    PETROLEUM 

The  use  of  crude  petroleum  is  almost  entirely  limited  to  the  winter 
spraying  of  deciduous  trees  when  the  buds  are  entirely  dormant.  It 
is  generally  applied  from  November  to  February.  The  crude  oil 
emulsion  is  especially  recommended  for  black  scale  (Saissetia  oleae), 
European  fruit  Lecanium  (Leoanium  corni),  European  or  Italian 
pear  scale  (Epidiaspis  piricola),  cherry  scale  (Lecanium  cerasorum) 
and  other  scales  infesting  deciduous  fruit  trees.  It  is  practically  the 
only  spray  treatment  which  has  been  effective  against  the  European 
or  Italian  pear  scale  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  will  destroy  the  winter 
eggs  of  many  of  the  aphids,  red  spider,  and  some  of  the  defoliating 
caterpillars. 

"When  crude  oil  is  thoroughly  applied  it  sometimes  penetrates  the 
fruit  buds  to  a  considerable  extent,  some  of  which  may  be  injured  and 
even  killed.  The  great  majority  of  the  buds  are  not  injured,  how- 
ever, but  appear  to  be  stimulated  to  a  more  vigorous  growth,  produc- 
ing a  character  of  foliage  which  withstands  attacks  of  diseases.  It  is 
good  practice,  especially  in  dry  seasons,  not  to  apply  crude  oil  emul- 
sion until  there  is  an  indication  of  the  swelling  of  the  buds. 

A  natural  crude  petroleum,  testing  about  23°  Baume,  is  preferred 
as  it  contains  some  of  the  lighter  and  more  penetrating  oils.  Heavier 
crudes  than  this  have  given  satisfactory  results,  even  those  testing 
18°  and  even  lower.  Residuum  oils  (the  residue  of  crue  petroleum 
after  the  lighter  portions  have  been  distilled  off)  can  be  used  if 
natural  crude  oil  is  unobtainable,  provided  their  content  of  asphaltum 
is  not  too  high  to  prevent  their  emulsification. 

Crude  Oil  Emulsion. — 

Formula  18 

Water 175  gallons 

Liquid  soap 3  gallons 

Natural  crude  petroleum  (21°-24°  Baume)       25  gallons 

Partly  fill  the  spray  tank  with  water,  add  the  liquid  soap,  agitate 
thoroughly  for  one  minute,  add  crude  pil  and  continue  the  agitation, 
while  running  in  the  remainder  of  the  water.  If  liquid  soap  cannot 
be  obtained,  use  20  pounds  of  fish-oil  soap  dissolved  in  10  gallons  of 
boiling  water  to  which  3  pounds  of  caustic  soda  or  lye  have  been  added. 
To  kill  moss  or  lichens  on  fruit  trees  add  2  pounds  of  caustic  soda  or 
lye  to  the  formula. 

During  the  spraying  operation  this  emulsion  should  be  thoroughly 
agitated  and  great  care  taken  to  wet  all  of  the  twigs.  From  8  to  10 
gallons  should  be  used  on  a  tree. 


27 


PETROLEUM   DISTILLATES 

Kerosene,  of  about  40°  Baume,  has  been  used  to  a  considerable 
extent  as  an  insecticide,  particularly  on  citrus  trees,  applied  in  the 
form  of  an  emulsion.  The  cheaper,  unrefined  distillates  have  now 
largely  replaced  kerosene  as  a  foliage  spray.  These  are  more  effective 
as  an  insecticide,  so  that  smaller  percentages  can  be  used  in  the  emul- 
sions, but  coupled  with  their  superior  insecticidal  properties  is  their 
greater  toxicity  to  fruit  and  foliage.  The  toxicity  of  an  oil  varies 
with  climatic  conditions,  foliage  injury  being  most  certain  in  dry 
weather  with  a  temperature  of  95°  F.  or  more.  Unfortunately,  the 
season  when  spraying  is  most  effective  against  scale  insects  on  citrus 
trees  is  often  during  the  hottest  and  driest  months.  It  seems  impos- 
sible to  guarantee  immunity  from  damage  with  any  of  the  varying 
distillates  obtainable,  irrespective  of  climatic  conditions  or  the  con- 
dition of  the  trees. 

Less  injury  to  citrus  fruit  and  foliage  occurs  in  the  coast  regions 
where  distillate  emulsions  have  been  used,  but  in  the  interior  sections 
the  use  of  this  insecticide  is  very  hazardous. 

Spraying  with  distillates,  or  with  any  other  material,  is  not  recom- 
mended as  a  substitute  for  fumigation  in  commercial  citrus  orchards, 
except  in  case  of  3roung  orchards,  trees  about  dooryards,  or  where 
fumigation  may  not  be  convenient,  or  infestation  may  be  light  or 
limited  to  occasional  trees.  In  such  cases,  Formula  19  is  considered 
the  most  satisfactory. 

Kerosene  emulsion  is  the  safest  of  the  petroleum-distillate  sprays, 
although  the  most  expensive.  The  "W.W. "  or  "Water  White"  is  a 
trade  name  of  a  low-grade  kerosene  and  is  safer  than  the  usual  grade 
of  material  sold  as  "distillate."  The  highly  refined  "case  goods" 
kerosene  has  been  found  to  cause  the  least  amount  of  injury  of  any 
of  the  petroleum  derivatives,  but  its  cost  would  prohibit  its  use  except 
on  a  small  scale.  If  much  of  the  kerosene  emulsion  is  allowed  to  run 
down  the  trunks  of  young  trees,  injury  is  likely  to  occur  just  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  ground. 

The  following  formula  is  intended  for  use  on  citrus  trees : 

Kerosene  Emulsion. — ■ 

Formula  19 

Kerosene 15  gallons 

Liquid  soap %  gallon 

(Or  hard  soap 4  pounds) 

Water 200  gallons 

If  liquid  soap  is  available,  it  is  preferable  to  hard  soap,  since  no 
heating  is  required.     Hard  soap,  preferably  fish-oil,  is  cut  in  thin 


28 

slices  and  dissolved  in  hot  water.  The  soap  is  placed  directly  in  the 
spray  tank  with  10  or  15  gallons  of  water  or  more  (the  exact  amount 
is  not  important),  and  then  the  engine  is  started.  The  oil  is  now 
added  slowly,  and  the  materials  are  emulsified  by  being  run  through 
the  pump  under  pressure.  After  a  few  minutes  the  rest  of  the  water 
may  be  added,  and  the  spray  is  ready  to  apply  to  the  trees. 

Certain  "tree"  distillates,  testing  31°  to  32°  Baume,  said  to  be 
selected  and  partially  refined,  have  lately  displaced  to  a  considerable 
extent  the  heavier  distillates  of  27°  to  28°  for  use  on  citrus  trees. 

"Tree"  Distillate  Emulsion. — 

Formula  20 

Tree  distillate  (31°-32°  Baume)  4  gallons 

Liquid  soap  %  gallon 

(Or  hard  soap 5  pounds) 

Water 200  gallons 

These  materials  are  emulsified  in  the  same  manner  as  explained  for 
the  kerosene  emulsion,  Formula  19.  If  the  distillate  is  used  without 
soap,  the  following  is  the  formula: 

Straight  "Tree"  Distillate.— 

Formula  21 

Tree  distillate   (31°-32°  Baume)  4  to  6  gallons 

Caustic  soda  (95  per  cent) 7  pounds 

Water 200  gallons 

In  the  case  of  the  straight  distillate,  the  oil  is  kept  in  suspension 
in  the  water  by  agtitation  and  forms  an  unstable  mechanical  emulsion, 
which  separates  quickly  in  standing.  In  using  this,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  the  spray  outfit  equipped  with  a  powerful  and  efficient  agitator, 
which  must  be  kept  going  continuously  during  the  spraying  operations. 

The  use  of  petroleum-distillate  sprays  against  black  scale  on  olive 
trees  is  now  being  recognized  as  a  profitable  practice.  For  this  pur- 
pose the  heavier  distillates  of  28°  to  30°  Baume  are  used  since  olive 
foliage  is  very  resistant  to  spray  injury  and  also  because  the  spray 
can  be  applied  through  the  winter  months  when  low  temperatures 
and  high  humidities  are  the  rule. 

Distillates  of  this  density  are  also  much  used  as  a  dormant  spray 
on  deciduous  trees,  although  crude  oil  sprays  are  replacing  more  and 
more  the  distillates  for  this  purpose. 

Heavy  Distillate  Emulsions. — For  use  on  olives,  the  following 
mechanical  emulsion  is  recommended : 


29 

Formula  22 

Distillate    (28°  Baume)  7  gallons 

Caustic  soda  (95%) 5  to  7  pounds 

Water  to  make  200  gallons 

First  dissolve  the  caustic  soda  in  a  small  amount  of  water  and 
add  to  the  water  in  the  spray  tank;  begin  the  agitation  and  slowly 
add  the  distillate,  continuing  the  agitation  during  the  application. 
This  spray  will  also  remove  lichens  or  moss  from  the  trees. 

By  reducing  the  amount  of  crude  oil  from  25  gallons  to  15  gallons 
in  Formula  18,  the  crude  oil  emulsion  may  be  used  on  olive  trees  for 
the  control  of  black  scale. 

For  use  on  deciduous  trees  the  following  is  recommended : 

Formula  23 

Distillate.  (27°-28°  Baume)  20  gallons 

Fish-oil  soap 30  pounds 

Water  to  make , 12  gallons 

Dissolve  the  fish-oil  soap  in  water,  heating  it  to  the  boiling  point, 
add  the  distillate  and  agitate  thoroughly  while  the  solution  is  hot. 
For  use  add  20  gallons  of  water  to  each  gallon  of  the  above  mixture. 

Commercial  Prepared  Emulsions  and  Miscible  Oils. — Many  grow- 
ers realize  the  difficulty  in  securing  proper  materials  for  home-made 
emulsions  and  the  variability  of  the  home-made  mixtures  even  under 
the  best  conditions.  They  prefer  to  buy  manufactured  products, 
especially  when  only  small  quantities  are  needed.  The  commercial 
emulsions  and  miscible  oils  are  no  more  effective  than  a  good  home- 
made preparation  and  are  only  of  interest  as  a  matter  of  convenience. 
These  preparations  are  on  the  market  in  great  variety,  many  of  which 
are  sold  under  trade  names.  Practically  all  grades  of  petroleum  dis- 
tillates, as  well  as  crude  petroleum,  are  obtainable  in  a  form  ready  to 
be  used,  after  simple  dilution  with  water.  If  these  ready-made  prep- 
arations are  to  be  used,  it  is  especially  important  to  purchase  only 
from  reliable  and  well-known  manufacturers  or  dealers.  The  com- 
mercial products  in  general  are  satisfactory  for  use  for  the  purposes 
indicated  in  the  above  formulas. 

The  following  is  recommended  for  the  control  of  thrips : 

Distillate  Emulsion  and  Tobacco  Extract. — 

Formula  24 

Water 12  gallons 

Fish-oil  soap  30  pounds 

Distillate   (32°-34°   Baume)  20  gallons 


30 

The  above  emulsion  is  prepared  in  the  ordinary  way  as  a  stock 
solution.  For  use  in  the  orchard  dilute  1  to  20  parts  of  water.  To 
every  200  gallons  of  this  diluted  spray  add  1  pint  of  tobacco  extract 
containing  40  per  cent  nicotine,  or  about  3y2  gallons  of  tobacco  extract 
containing  2%  per  cent  nicotine. 

The  Rosin  Wash  is  chiefly  used  for  young  and  tender  nursery 
stock,  because  it  does  not  cause  the  injury  often  following  the  appli- 
cation of  petroleum  distillates.    The  preparation  is 

Formula  25 

Rosin  10  pounds 

Caustic  soda  (76%  to  95%)  3  pounds 

Fish  oil  iy2  pounds 

Water  to  make 50  gallons 

To  a  gallon  of  hot  water  in  an  iron  kettle  add  the  fish  oil  and  the 
rosin  and  heat  until  the  latter  is  softened ;  after  first  dissolving  the 
caustic  soda  in  a  small  quantity  of  water  add  it  and  stir  the  mixture 
thoroughly,  after  which  pour  in  enough  water  to  make  50  gallons  of 
spray  material. 

Crude  Carbolic  Acid  Emulsion. — 

Formula  26 

Fish-oil  soap 40  pounds 

Crude  carbolic  acid 5  gallons 

Water  to  make 40  gallons 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  hot  water  completely,  add  the  carbolic  acid  and 
heat  to  the  boiling  point  for  twenty  minutes  (reserve  some  water  to 
add  in  case  the  mixture  begins  to  boil  over).  For  use  add  20  gallons 
of  water  to  every  gallon  of  the  above  stock  solution.  The  emulsion 
needs  little  or  no  agitation. 

TOBACCO   PREPARATIONS 

Concentrated  commercial  preparations  of  tobacco  have  almost 
entirely  superseded  the  home-made  tobacco  infusions  on  account  of 
their  greater  convenience  and  uniformity.  A  material  containing  40 
per  cent  nicotine  in  the  form  of  nicotine  sulfate  is  recommended  for 
the  preparation  of  contact  insecticides  containing  nicotine.  The  usual 
formula  is 

Formula  27 

Tobacco  extract  (nicotine  sulfate  40%)  1  pint 

Fish-oil  soap 4  to  5  pounds 

Water  100  to  150  gallons 

For  small  quantities  use  1  teaspoonful  to  1  gallon  of  water. 


31 

Tobacco  Dust. — Finely-ground  tobacco  dnst  finds  some  use  as  in- 
secticide, particularly  in  the  control  of  aphids.  Fifty  per  cent  of  kaolin 
or  hydrated  lime  is  sometimes  mixed  with  it  as  a  diluent. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Corrosive  Sublimate  (Bichloride  of  Mercury). — This  is  a  very 
poisonous  substance  and  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  of  germicides ;  it 
is  employed  to  some  extent  in  plant-disease  treatment.  The  usual 
strength  is 

Formula  28 

Corrosive  sublimate  1  ounce 

Water 8  gallons, 

or  1  part  to  1000. 


t?" 


Tablets  to  make  this  strength  when  added  to  1  pint  of  water  may 
be  obtained  at  drug  stores.  Distilled  or  rain  water  should  be  used; 
the  solution  must  not  be  kept  in  a  metal  container. 

Whitewash. — 

Formula  29 

(Ordinary  Formula) 

Water 2  gallons 

Quick-lime 10  pounds 

Add  more  water  after  slaking  to  bring  the  wash  to  the  desired 
consistency. 

A  more  durable  white-wash: 

Formula  30 

Quick-lime    5  pounds 

Salt   y2  pound 

Sulfur  %  pound 

Slake  the  lime  slowly  with  water  and  add  the  salt  and  sulfur  while 
it  is  boiling.  Add  enough  more  water  to  make  a  good  wash.  This  is 
good  for  white-washing  the  bodies  of  trees  in  the  fall. 

Government  Whitewash. — 

Formula  31 

Quick-lime 40  pounds 

Salt 15  pounds 

Rice  Flour  3  pounds 

Spanish  whiting  y2  pound 

Glue  1  pound 

Water   5  gallons 

This  is  complicated  and  expensive,  and  some  of  the  ingredients  are 
often  difficult  to  obtain. 


32 

Grafting  Wax. — 

Many  different  combinations  are  used  for  this  purpose,  most  of 
them  being  various  combinations  of  beeswax  and  rosin.  The  following 
formula  is  a  good  one : 

Formula  32 

Rosin  4  pounds 

Beeswax 1  pound 

Linseed  oil  1  pint 

The  ingredients  are  all  melted  and  mixed  together  in  a  kettle.  In  hot 
weather  use  more  rosin. 

Some  use  one  pound  of  tallow  as  a  substitute  for  the  linseed  oil. 
One  ounce  of  lamp-black  or  one  pint  of  flour  is  sometimes  added. 
Asphaltum  is  used  to  some  extent  as  a  substitute  for  rosin  and  beeswax 
and,  in  fact,  straight  asphaltum  is  used  successfully  in  some  cases  for 
grafting  wax. 

Carbon  Bisulfide,  is  a  liquid  which  evaporates  quickly  when  ex- 
posed to  the  air,  forming  a  heavy  and  inflammable  vapor  of  a  great 
penetrating  power.  In  using  the  material  for  fumigation,  it  is  essential 
that  it  be  placed  at  the  top  of  the  room  in  a  shallow  container  in  order 
that  the  heavy  vapors  as  they  are  driven  off  will  thoroughly  diffuse 
with  the  air  contained  in  the  space  to  be  fumigated.  The  proper 
amount  to  use  depends  upon  the  type  of  room  being  fumigated  and 
ranges  up  to  about  30  pounds  to  1000  cubic  feet  in  ordinary  rooms 
where  the  walls  and  floor  have  not  been  made  especially  tight.  The 
best  results  are  obtained  by  doing  this  work  when  the  temperature  is 
above  75°  F. 

Carbon  bisulfide  is  one  of  the  best  agents  for  destroying  ground 
squirrels  that  have  failed  to  take  poisoned  grain,  or  having  once 
survived  the  poison  refuse  to  take  it  again.  It  is  recommended  for 
use  against  ground  squirrels  during  the  winter  season  when  the 
ground  is  wet. 

The  two  best  methods  of  applying  carbon  bisulfide  are  by  the  use 
of  the  "waste-ball"  method  and  of  the  "destructor."  The  common 
waste-ball  method  is  to  pour  a  tablespoonful  of  carbon  bisulfide  on  a 
piece  of  cotton  waste,  corn  cob,  horse  manure,  or  other  absorptive 
material,  which  should  then  be  thrown  as  far  down  the  hole  as  possible 
and  the  opening  immediately  closed  with  earth.  Explosion  of  the 
gas  in  connection  with  the  waste-ball  method  is  recommended  where 
the  ground  is  damp  and  there  is  no  danger  from  fire.  The  explosion 
of  the  gas  forms  new  compounds  which  are  poisonous  and  may  diffuse 
somewhat  more  rapidly  than  the  vapors  of  the  material.     A  method 


33 

which  is  said  to  be  equally  effective  to  exploding  the  gas  as  above  is 
by  the  use  of  the  "destructor,"  which  pumps  the  vaporized  carbon 
bisulfide  into  the  burrow. 

Poisoned  Barley. — -Following  is  the  latest  government  formula  for 
preparing  poisoned  barley  for  California  ground  squirrels : 

Formula  33 

Barley  (clean  grain)  16  quarts 

Strychnine  (powdered  alkaloid)  1  ounce 

Bicarbonate  of  soda  (baking  soda)  1  ounce 

Thin  starch  paste %  pint 

Heavy  corn  sirup 14  pint 

Glycerin 1  tablespoonful 

Saccharin 1/10  ounce 

Mix  thoroughly  1  ounce  of  powdered  strychnine  and  1  ounce  of 
common  baking  soda.  Sift  this  into  %  pint  of  thin,  hot  starch  paste 
and  stir  to  a  smooth,  creamy  mass.  (The  starch  paste  is  made  by 
dissolving  1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  dry  gloss  starch  in  a  little  cold 
water,  which  is  then  added  to  %  pint  of  boiling  water;  boil  and  stir 
constantly  until  a  clear  thin  paste  is  formed.)  Add  y±  pint  of  heavy 
corn  sirup  and  1  tablespoonful  of  glycerin  and  stir  thoroughly.  Add 
1/10  ounce  of  saccharin  and  stir  thoroughly.  Pour  this  mixture  over 
16  quarts  of  clean  barley  and  mix  well  so  that  each  grain  is  coated. 

Caution:  All  containers  of  poison  and  all  utensils  used  in  the 
preparation  of  poisons  should  be  kept  plainly  labeled  and  out  of  reach 
of  children,  irresponsible  persons  and  live  stock. 


34 


INDEX 


Alfalfa  1,  Nematode  17,  in  orchards  17, 
meal   21. 

Alkali  17,  sulfides  25. 

Angoumois  moth  9. 

Anthracnose  bean  4. 

Ants  15,  Argentine  15,  sirups  21  and  22. 

Aphids  15,  oil  emulsion  for  26,  tobacco  dust 
for  31. 

Aphis,  green  and  rosy  apple  2 ;  green,  rosy, 
wooly  3 ;  bean  4,  cabbage  5,  celery  6, 
cherry  6,  chrysanthemum  6,  citrus  7, 
cucumber  8,  dahlia  8,  melon  9,  pea  10, 
green  on  pear  root  12,  sorghum  13, 
strawberry  14,  walnut  14. 

Apoplexy  grape  9. 

Armillaria,  almond  1,  apricot  3,  citrus  6, 
olive  10,  peach  11,  plum  and  prune  12, 
walnut   14,    18. 

Armyworms,  alfalfa  1,  beet  5,  corn  7,  grain 
8,  grape  9,  onion  10,  pea  10,  potato  13, 
sorghum  13,  tomato  14,   1 6. 

Arsenate  of  lead,  cherry  6,  grape  9,  red 
humped  caterpillar  12,  cankerworms  15, 
19. 

Arsenic,  white  20,  trioxide  20. 

Arsenicals  19. 

Asphaltum,  peach  11,  crown  gall  16,  wounds, 
pruning  cuts  19,  residium  oils  26,  graft- 
ing wax  32. 

Bark  beetles,  apricot  4,  olive  10. 

Barley  4,  straw  7,  8,  sensitive  to  bluestone 
8,  poisoned  33. 

Beans  4,  Black  eyes  5,  arsenicals  on  19. 

Beeswax  32. 

Beetles,  asparagus  4,  cucumber  8. 

Bichloride  of  Mercury  31. 

Bitter  pit,  olive  10,   17. 

Black  heart,  apricot  3. 

Black  knot,  grape  9. 

Black  leaf,  pear  11. 

Black  rot,  sweet  potato  14. 

Black  scale  3,  olive  10,  plum  and  prune  12, 
26,   olives  28. 

Blight,  apple  2,  beet  5,  celery  6,  pea  10, 
peach  11,  pear  11,  late  tomato  17,  wal- 
nut 14. 

Blister  mite,  pear  11. 

Blossom  blight,  apricot  3. 

Blossom  end  rot,  tomato  14,   17. 

Blue  mold,  citrus  7. 

Bluestone  7,  smut  8  and  23,  lemon  wash  23. 

Bordeaux,  apple  scab  2,  celery  blight  6, 
paste  7,  peach  11,  pear  scab  11,  flea 
beetles  on  potatoes  13,  paste  14  and  16, 
paste  19  and  27. 

Bordeaux  mixture,  apple  scab  2,  bush  fruit 
5,  citrus  7,  melons  9,  pear  12,  straw- 
berry 14,  tomato   14,   commercial  23. 

Borers,  shot  hole  4,  bush  fruits  5,  currant 
and  gooseberry  8,  deciduous  nursery 
stock  10,  California  peach  11. 

Brown  rot,  apricot  3.  citrus  7,  peach  11, 
plum  and  prune  12. 

Bud  blight,  apricot  3. 

Burlap  covers  16. 


California  grape  root  worm  9. 

California   peach   borer,    almond    1,    apricot 

4,  cherry  6,  peach  11,  plum  and  prune 

12. 
Cane  blight,  bush  fruits  5. 
Canker  worm,  apple  2,  cherry  6,  peach  11, 

plum  and  prune  12,   15. 
Carbolic  acid,  emulsion  5  and  30. 
Carbon   bisulfide,   bean    weavil    4,    grain    9, 

potato    tuber    moth     13,     squirrels    and 

gophers   18,   32. 
Caterpillar,  see  tent  and  red  humped  cater- 
pillars,  alfalfa   1,   celery   6,  hollyhock  9. 

red    humped    apple    15,    yellow    necked 

apple  15,  pears  and  apples  20,  tent  18, 

26. 
Caustic  soda  21,  26,  28,  30. 
Centipede  4. 
Citrus   6,    nursery   stock    9,    frost    16,    bran 

mash,   16  and  20,  27. 
Codling  moth,  apple  2,   3;  pear  11  and  12, 

19. 
Combined    spraying,    almond     1,     apple     2, 

apricot  4,  peach  11,  pear  12,  plum  and 

prune  12,  rose  13. 
Copper  compounds  22. 
Copper  sulfate  23. 
Corrosive  sublimate,  pear  blight   11,   potato 

13,  crown  gall  6,   31. 
Cottony  rot,   citrus   7. 
Crown  borer,  strawberry  14. 

Crown  gall,  alfalfa  1,  almond  1,  apricot  3, 
grape  9,  10,  peach  11,  plum  12,  walnut 

14,  15. 

Crude  oil  emulsion  12,  26. 

Crude  petroleum  26. 

Curly  top,  beet  5. 

Cutworms,  alfalfa  1,  beet  5,  corn  7,  grain 
9,  grape  9,  onion  10,  pea  10,  potato  13, 
sorghum  and  Sudan  grass  13,  tomato 
14,    16. 

Damping  off,  citrus  6,  tomato  14,  16. 

Deciduous  trees,  sprays  for  28. 

"Destructor"  for  carbon  bisulfide  32. 

Dextrin  24. 

Diabrotica,  dahlia  8. 

Diatomaceous  earth  4. 

Dieback,  cherry  6,  olive  10,   17. 

Distillates  27,  tree  28,   heavy  28,   29. 

Dry  rot,  olive  10,  potato  12,  17. 

Ear  mold,  corn  7. 

Ear  worm,  corn  7. 

Eel  worm  17. 

Emulsion,  crude  oil  26,  kerosene  27,  "tree" 
distillate  28,  distillate  and  tobacco  ex- 
tract 29. 

Emulsions,  heavy  distillate  28,  commercial 
29. 

European  fruit  lecanium  26. 

Eutettix  tenella  5. 

Exanthema,  olive  10,    17. 

Fish  oil  soap  27,   29,   30. 

Flat  headed  apple  tree  borer,  apple  2,  plum 
12. 


35 


Flea  beetle,  melon  9,  potato  13,  strawberry 
14,  tomato  14. 

Flies  16. 

Flour,  with  sulfur  24,  in  grafting  wax  32. 

Flowers  of  sulfur  23. 

Fly  paper,  poison  21. 

Formaldehyde,  grain  8,  potatoes  13,  poison- 
ing flies  16. 

Formulas  and  description  of  materials  19. 

Freezing,  nursery  stock  9,  sour  sap  18. 

French  pear  15. 

Frost  16,  gummosis  16. 

Fruit  mold,  bush  fruits  5, 

Fumigation  27. 

Fusarium.  bean  4. 

Gall  fly,  chrysanthemum  6. 

Gasolene  18. 

General  subjects  15. 

Glue  with  sulfur  24,  in  whitewash  31. 

Gophers  18. 

Grafting  wax  32. 

Grain  8,  nematode  17. 

Granary  weevil,  corn  7. 

Grasshoppers,  alfalfa  1,  beet  5,  corn  7, 
grain  8,  grape  9,  potato  13,  sorghum  13, 
tomato   14,    16. 

Green  manure,  citrus  7,  crops  10,  for  physi- 
ological diseases  17. 

Green  mold,  citrus  7. 

Green  rot,  apricot  3. 

Gumming,  apricot  3. 

Gummosis,  cherry  6,  citrus  7,    16. 

Hard  soap,  grape  9,  kerosene  emulsion  27. 

Hardpan    17. 

Hydrocyanic  acid,  citrus  scales  7,  decidu- 
ous nursery  stock  10,  citrus  nursery 
stock  10. 

Japanese  pear  root,  aphis  12,  blight  11. 

Jelly   end,   potato    13. 

Kaolin,  cherry  slug  6.  tobacco  dust  31. 

Kerosene  27. 

Kerosene  emulsion  27. 

Lampblack  32. 

Lead  arsenate,  apple  2,  basic  3,  asparagus 
4,  cabbage  5.  celery  6,  cucumber  8,  pear 
12,  potato  13,  cankerworms  15,  19,  acid 
19,  phim,  prune  12,  dry  or  powdered  24. 

Leaf  hopper,  grape  9. 

Leaf  miner,  chrysanthemum  6. 

Leaf  spot,  alfalfa  1,  beet  5,  bush  fruits  5, 
strawberry   14. 

Lecanium  cerasorum  26. 

Lecanium  corni  26. 

Lichens  26. 

Lime,  cherry  6,  grain  8,  with  lime  sulfur 
12,   dust  for  snails  18,  hydrated  31. 

Lime  sulfur,  almond  1,  apple  2  and  3,  apri- 
cot 2  and  3,  bush  fruits  5,  citrus  7, 
currant  and  gooseberry  8,  peach  11, 
pear  scab  11  and  12,  rose  mildew  13, 
walnut  14,   solution  25. 

Linseed  oil  32. 

Little  leaf,  grape  9,  peach  11,  17. 

Loganberry  5. 

Lye,  concentrated  21,  26. 

Maggots,  onion   10. 

Manure,  citrus  7,  olives  10. 


Mealy  bug,  citrus  7. 

Melaxuma,  walnut  14. 

Mildew,  apple  2  and  3,  bean  4,  cucumber 
8,  currant  and  gooseberry  8,  dahlia  8, 
grape  9,  onion  10,  pea  10,  rose  13,  sur- 
face 23. 

Miscible   oil,   apple    aphis   2    and   3,    apricot 

3,  bush  fruit  5,  cherry  6,  olive  10,  pear 
12,  plum  and  prune  12,  rose  13,  29. 

Mites,  almond  1. 

Moss,  apple  2,  plum   12,   26,   29. 

Mottled  leaf,  citrus  7,   17. 

Mulch,  olives  10,  physiological  diseases  17. 

Nematode,  bean  4,  beet  5  and  17,  cucumber 

8,  melon  9,  nursery  stock  10,  peach  11, 

potato  13,  tomato  14,   17. 
Nicotine,    sprays    on    beans    4,    cabbage    5, 

celery    6,    cherry    6,    chrysanthemum    6, 

citrus  7. 
Nicotine  sulfate,   apple  2   and  3,    asparagus 

4,  cabbage  5,  chrysanthemum  6,  dahlia 
8,  grape  9,  hollyhock  9,  onion  10,  pea 
10,  pear  11  and  12,  rose  3,  strawberry 
14,    walnut    14,    aphids   15. 

Nursery  stock   11,  rosin  wash  30. 

Oak  fungus  15. 

Oats  8,  bluestone  8. 

Obscure  diseases,  grape  9. 

Oil  emulsion,  apple  2  and  3,  apricot  3, 
bush  fruits  5,  cabbage  5,  cherry  6,  citrus 
mealy  bug  7,  currant  and  gooseberry  8, 
olive  10,  pear  11  and  12,  plum  and 
prune  12,  rose  13,  15,  tent  caterpillar 
18. 

Oil  sprays  3. 

Oils  residium  26. 

Oleic  acid  24. 

Olive  10,  distillate  emulsion  28. 

Paris  green  21. 

Peach  twig  borer,  almond  1,  apricot  4, 
peach    11,   plum  and  prune   12. 

Petroleum,  crude  26,  distillates  27,  distil- 
late 28  and  29. 

Phylloxera  9. 

Physiological   diseases    17. 

Plant  lice  15. 

Plow  sole  17. 

Poison  baits  20,   substitutes   in   21. 

Poison  bran  mash    16,   20. 

Poisoned  sirup  15,  fruits  18,  grain  32, 
barley  33. 

Pruning  cuts  18. 

Quicklime,  Bordeaux  22  and  23,  grain  23, 
whitewash  31. 

Rabbits   17. 

Red  humped  caterpillar,  almond  1,  apple  2, 
apricot  4,  cherry  6,  pear  11,  plum  and 
prune  12. 

Red  spider,  almond  1,  bean  4,  citrus  7, 
cotton  7,  current  8,  peach  11,  plum  and 
prune   12,   23,   26. 

Residium  oils  26. 

Rhizoctnnia,  bean   4,   potato   12. 

Rice  meal  21,  flour  31. 

Rice  weevil  9. 

Root  and  stem  rot,   strawberry   14. 

Root  aphis,  pear   12. 

Root  maggot,  cabbage  5. 

Rosette   17. 

Rosin   wash   30-32. 


36 


Rust,  alfalfa  1,  almond  1,  asparagus  4, 
bean  4,  beet  5,  bush  fruits  5,  chrysanthe- 
mum 6,  grain  8,  hollyhock  9,  snapdragon 
13. 

Saccharine   32. 

Saissetia  oleae  26. 

Salt,  slugs  18,  whitewash  31. 

Sal  Soda  21. 

San  Jose  Scale,  almond  1,  apple  2,  3,  peach 
11,  plum  and  prune  12,  rose  13. 

Scab,  apple  2,  3,  pear  11,  12,  potato  12. 

Scale,  brown  apricot  3,  currant  and  goose- 
berry 8,  citrus  7,  pear  12,  plum  and 
prune  12,  rose  13,  black  26,  European 
or  Italian  pear  26,  cherry  26. 

Scales,  bush  fruits  5,  citrus  7. 

Scaly  bark,  citrus  6. 

Seedling  root  rot,  beet  5. 

Shot  hole,  almond  1,  apricot  3. 

Shot  hole  fungus,  almond  1. 

Shot  hole  borers,  apricot  4. 

Shorts  21. 

Slug,  cherry  6,  pear  11. 

Smut,  corn  7,  sorghum  Sudan  grass  13. 

Snails   18. 

Soap,  liquid  9,  with  sulfur  24,  fish  oil  26, 
29,  30;  liquid  26,  27,  28;  hard  27. 

Soda  ash  21. 

Soda,  sulfides  of  25,  baking  33,  bicarbonate 
33. 

Sodium  arsenite  21. 

Soft  rot,  potato   13,   sweet  potato   14. 

Soluble  sulfur  3,   25. 

Sorghum  13. 

Sour  sap,  almond  1,  apricot  3,  plum  and 
prune  12,   18. 

Squirrels  17,  poisoned  barley  for  33. 

Starch  paste  33. 

Steam  sterilizing  soil  16. 

Stem  rot,  alfalfa  1,  bean  4. 

Stone  fruits,  arsenicals  19. 

Strawberry   14. 

Strychnine  sulfate  18,   formula  33. 

Sudan  grass  13 

Sulfides  of  soda  25. 


Sulfur,  almond  1,  apple  2  and  3,  asparagus 
4,  bean  4,  cherry  6,  citrus  7,  cotton  7, 
cucumber  8,  currant  and  gooseberry  8, 
grape  9,  pea  10,  rose  13,  sulfur  com- 
pounds 23,  pastes  or  wettable  sulfurs 
24,  commercial  paste  24,  home  made 
wettable  24,    "Soluble  sulfur"    25. 

Summer  blight,  tomato   14. 

Sunburn  18. 

Surprise  pear  11. 

Symphyla  4. 

Tallow  32. 

Tanglefoot  bands   15. 

Tent  caterpillars,  apple  2,  cherry  6,  peach 
11,   plum  and  prune   12,    18. 

Teparys   (beans)   nematode  4. 

Thrips,  bean  4,  dahlia  8,  onion  10,  peach 
11,  pear  11  and  12,  plum  and  prune  12. 

Tobacco,  refuse  2,  extract  2,  lust  for  pea 
10,  powdered  for  walnut  15,  prepara- 
tions 30,   infusions  30,  dust  31. 

Tobacco  worm,  tomato   14. 

Tomato  worm,  potato  13,  tomato  14. 

Tuber  moth,  potato  13. 

Tuberculosis,  olive  10. 

Twig  blight,  apricot  3. 

Tussock  moth,  apple  2. 

Walnut   14,   black  15. 

"Wasteball"    (for  carbon  bisulfide)    32. 

Water,  under  high  pressure,  citrus  7. 

Weed  killers  21. 

Weevil,  bean  4,  pea  10. 

Wettable  sulfur,  home  made  1,  7,  7,  24. 

Whale  oil  soap,  asparagus  4. 

White  fly,  dahlia  8. 

White  wash  14,   17,   18,  31. 

Whiting,   Spanish   31. 

Wilt,  bean  4,  melon  9,  potato  12,  sweet 
potato  14,  tomato  14. 

Winter  injury  18. 

Wireworms,  beet  5,  potato   13. 

Wooly  apple  aphis  2. 

Wounds,  tree   18. 

Yellow  necked  apple  caterpillar,  walnut  15. 

Zinc  arsenite,  formula  20. 


